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Attaching a Set-in-Sleeve

The Set-in-Sleeve is the most commonly used sleeve. Of all the sleeves you can make or add to a garment, this one follows most closely the the natural curves of your body so it is comfortable to wear.  That is, if it is made correctly and attached to the armhole area correctly. Let's take a look at how to put a Set-in-Sleeve in a garment. To learn about Set-in-Sleeves click here.

Make up your sleeve first by stitching the necessary seams.

Ease stitch the top of your sleeve.  In most cases, this is done notch to notch.

Press your sleeve and seams open.  For best results use a pressing cushion.  You can find directions on making one yourself here. Make a Pressing cushion for sleeves.

With pretty sides together pin the under arm sleeve seam to the under arm seam of the bodice. As shown with the two blue pins in the photo.

Now "flip" the garment or bodice over the sleeve so that the wrong side of the garment is facing you, as shown in the photo. (It will still be pretty sides together.)

Match the under arm sleeve seam to the underarm seam of the garment, match notches, and dots if applicable.

Pin sleeve and garment together matching all areas.  "Ease" the sleeve around the armhole by rolling the fabric over the finger of the left hand and easing out the fullness.  They may appear as pucker between your pins.  Your pins should be close together, and puckers should be very small.

Take out the "sleeve" of the machine as shown in the photo. (Not to be confused with the sleeve of your garment)

This makes it easier to sew the sleeve of your garment on, giving it more room and a round area. 

Sew in the sleeves by machine stitching very slowly.  Most pattern companies prefer you baste the sleeve on first.

If no puckers, stitch again next to your first stitch.  In most cases, trim seams and press towards sleeve.

Once you are done turn your sleeve pretty side out and check it. This photo shows the sleeve as soon as it was sewn.  It has not been pressed yet.  It looks a though there are "puckers." However, once I "played" with the seam, rolling it on my fingers, and pressed it.  There are no "puckers." The pressed results is shown in the photo at the top of the page.
 

 
 

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