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Darts...How to make darts.

     A dart is a common way in dress making to shape a garment. darts can be found on tops, dresses, vest, jackets, pants, and skirts. Since darts help shape a garment to one's body, they can be found on curved areas of the garment like the bust area, buttocks area, and waist area. Some garments that are more fitted will find darts in sleeves, and backs.

     There are two different kinds of darts, a single -pointed dart which is the most common dart found in dress making, and the double pointed dart. Darts should always be stitched from the widest to the narrowest part of the dart.

     Darts should always be pressed flat and toward the center of the garment. For example, as shown in the sketch below, the darts on the back of the skirt pattern are pressed toward the center back seam where the zipper will go.

Also see how to sew a double-pointed dart, also known as a diamond dart.

I will be using a bodice top front piece to show how darts are made.

Cut out your pattern piece. This pattern piece needed to be placed on the fold.

Open up the pattern piece. Notice how flat the top bodice is. There is no shape to this piece of fabric.
Mark your dart according to your pattern piece. Line up your pattern piece onto your fabric.
Mark the circles indicated on your pattern piece on the wrong side of your fabric.

Then with a ruler or straight edge draw lines matching the dots.

This will form a triangular shape.
Fold fabric. Mark the point end of the dart with a pin.
Begin sewing at the widest part of the dart. Back stitch two or three stitches.
Sew to the point of the dart on the line you drew. Do not back stitch. (You can back stitch two or three stitches at this point but keep in mind back stitching may cause a tuck or pucker at the dart point.)
Leave the threads long at the point of the dart and hand tie a knot. Trim threads.
Press darts towards the center.

Notice once the darts were made there is now a shape to the once piece of flat fabric and a shaped garment is beginning to form.



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Techniques in Sewing for Garment Making & Construction / Shaping a Garment










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