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Keeping Warm All Winter...(Brrr)
Winter Workshop Series: Follow our Seven 3-hour Workshops to Make A Lined Winter Coat with Thermal Interlining 1 - 2 - 3 & 4 - 5 - 6 - 7

How to make and sew a winter coat using thermal interlining.

Shown here is the instructor's winter coat. Each step was photographed to help others learn how to construct a winter coat with thermal interlining. The outer coat fabric is made from cream colored ultra suede and it is lined in black fabric.

After making a winter coat as my final grade project in 10th grade some 30 years ago, I was eager to share what I had learned and offer this workshop to my students. Back then I made my coat in slate blue corduroy fabric with navy lining, and embellished with navy piping. Upon wearing it for only the second time, a lady complimented me. When I told her I had made it, she was ecstatic and offered me $150.00 on the spot for my handmade coat. Follow our 9 students in these seven workshops from start to finish to make a lined winter coat with thermal interlining!


WORKSHOP 1 - How to Make a Lined Winter Coat with Thermal Interlining

Now you can follow 9 of our students in seven 3-hour exciting workshops,  "Make a Lined Winter Coat with Thermal Interlining." The particular coat that the girls made in the workshop is a semi-fitted wrap-around, with a bodice fitted with darts, pockets in the circle skirt, and a wide, fashionable hood. However, our advice and instructions can help you make your winter coat no matter which cut and style you choose. Students chose a wide range of fabrics, including: wool blend in solid red and black, ultra-suede in cranberry, cream, and brown with embroidered turquoise accents, Burberry plaid inspired flannel, and a felted wool fabric.

In our first 3-hour session most of the time the students spent taking measurements, figuring out pattern sizes, and pinning and cutting out the pattern pieces for the outer coat fabric and lining. We went over the differences between interlining, lining, and interfacing. We also discussed darts extensively: their importance, how they're made, and why a person shouldn't sew darts on the interlining.


We needed to take accurate measurements to get the right pattern sizes. Most of the girls ask a great question, "Should we add more since it is winter and we might be wearing a sweater underneath?" The answer is no, pattern companies allow extra room for that in the pattern.

We used every inch of the studio space to find room to lay, pin, and cut out our coat pattern pieces.

There was lots of pinning and cutting on the first day. We had to take sewing machines off the tables and move them onto the floor for extra room. It made the studio look very different!

Pinning and cutting out the thermal underlining was difficult because it was so thick.


Making a Winter Coat: Working with Thermal Interlining:

Once you have cut out the pieces from your coat fabric, cut the same pieces out from the interlining.

If you have the iron-on interlining, trim the interlining 1/4" from the coat fabric. The iron-on interlining has a hard side and a soft side. When heated, a thin layer of glue melts on the hard side and attaches the interlining to your fabric. If the heated glue gets on the right side of your fabric or your iron, both could be ruined. Treat the interlining the same way you would treat interfacing and trim around the edges.

(Note: if you do not have iron-on interlining, then stitch each interlining piece on the wrong side of each coat fabric piece using a 1/2" seam allowance.)

Making Darts when working with Thermal Interlining:

When working with darts and interlining, cut out the area where the dart will be on the interlining.

Simply draw a line on the interlining where the markings are for the dart, and cut it out. This is to prevent bulkiness on your garment in the area where the dart would be.

(If you are using a 1/2" thick interlining and make a dart from it, the dart gets folded, and now you have an extra 1.5" where the dart lies on the garments. This would create a huge bulk in the very same area you want to bring in by making a dart.)

This is the underlining of the upper back of the jacket with the two darts cuts out.
Make darts in your coat fabric.
Once the darts are made in your outer coat fabric the underlining is ready to be pressed onto the wrong side.

As you press the underlining, close up the cut out of the dart area.

This is what the upper back of the coat looks like once the darts are done, and the underlining is pressed in place.

See our 2nd workshop: Putting together the front and back of coat and sewing the hood



Winter Workshop Series: Follow our Seven 3-hour Workshops to Make A Lined Winter Coat with Thermal Interlining 1 - 2 - 3 & 4 - 5 - 6 - 7

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